Although we've come, to the end of the Rio'd...

It's been real, Rio, but everything comes to an end. Here's how I spent my last week or so there.

Somehow, I forgot to post anything about a visit to the Botanical Gardens and the Ipanema Lagoon. Here's some pictures from Tuesday 3/6:

One of the many waterfalls in the Rainforest-like Botanical Garden:
Maria (Buenos Aires), Andreia (Brazil) and Anja (Germany) my dates for the garden party.

After the garden, Anja and Andreia and I walked over to the Ipanema Lagoon, a big area for people to exercise and checked out the sunset (I've developed a pattern of daily sunset observance).
From the Lagoon, there's a good view of Corcovado Mountain (Cristo Redentor).
Andreia and Anja:

Later that week, I moved to Ipanema to another hostel. However, it wasn't so social there, and the hostel was terrible and didn't really have a staff nor someone to organize social events with people. So I ended up heading back to my old hostel in Copacabana with my Norwegian roommates and we ended up back at the Lapa (ARCHES) Street Party on Friday 3/9.

Here's El Misti Copacabana hostel and crew:

Lapa Street Party crowd:Roman (Deutsch), Marty (Australia), German guy from the states, Martine (Norway):

Saturday was a day of relaxation and recuperation. I went for a stroll along Ipanema beach and checked out a Red Bull Women's Soccer Hacky (not sure of the real name of the game - Roda de Bola?) Competition for a long while. These girls have SKILLS. Then fell asleep on the beach and headed back to the hostel. After another nap, I walked from Ipanema out to the end of Copacabana (about an hour's walk) to see if I could get in the stadium for the South America Footvolley Tournament. But as you can see below, a lot of people had the same idea, since admission was free. I gave up on the dream, and took a bus back to the hostel.

The sidewalk pattern at Ipanema Beach:


Later that night, ended up back at the old Copa hostel yet again to attend a beach party on Copacabana. Basically, a bunch (~175?) of people meeting at the beach with ONE speaker controlled with a laptop. Beer had to be bought from the little beach side bars since it was more than a gathering than an organized party. Musical highlights of the night: The Roots - Don't Say Nuthin and 2Pac - Changes.

Here's the Norwegians, German guy from the states, Dylan and Lisa from London and Corey from SF.


A shot of the party from the beach:
Sunday began a bad streak of bodily feelings (HOLLER!). Woke up with a major headache and queasy stomach that I mistook for a hangover. Knowing I'd be moving away from the beach to a couchsurfer's house the next day, I went back to Ipanema beach for a few hours in order to work on my tan and soak in the "D" (vitamin) at Posto 9. I took a good nap here, but still woke up with a headache after taking tylenol. Hmmm. Went back to the hostel to shower and nap, and still woke up with a headache. More tylenol. Stomach still felt weird, so I went out to find something to soak up the remaining alcohol. Went to a beach suco's place and sat down to order a double cheeseburger and fries. As soon as the waitress walked away, I felt instant regret. Stomach started churning and I realized I wasn't hungry at all. At home, it's easy not to finish your meal or throw it away when you don't feel like eating anymore. However, as a backpacker, anytime I pay for a meal I want to enjoy and finish everything so I'm not wasting money and get all the caloric glory. I got about 2 bites of that burger and 6-7 fries before I had to give up. Embarassing! Walked back to the hostel and began packing my belongings to get ready to move the next morning.

Monday morning: after getting directions from my Couch Surfing host, Pedro, I left the hostel and headed to the bus stop. I didn't eat much the previous day, and I was drinking a lot of water, but I still had a major headache and queasiness. Got on a bus with a crazy driver, and with all the moves I got off the bus feeling quão horrível! Called Pedro somehow, and he and his gf Manuela met me at the bus stop where I was sweating bullets ad felt like passing out. I did my best to seem energetic and excited to meet them, but I was feeling so sick that I could barely stand. Met Pedro's parents and brother, and went immediately into the bathroom to vomit out everything I had in my stomach. MAJOR RELIEF! But I couldn't do much. Pedro, who describes himself as an intermediate English speaker, and his family, who don't speak or understand much English at all, were incredibly welcoming! I felt so bad, both physically and guilty-wise, since all I did was sleep and watch TV for 4 days. Seriously couldn't lift my head up for more than 10 minutes without getting a major pressure headache.

Here's Pedro, a 20 year-old Italian-Brazilian filmmaker/cinema student/freelance video/screenwriter showing his concept drawings for an animated short he's directing


Here's his parents, who are Street Theater performers (clowns, drama, music) learning the art of the One Man Band. These are dedicated artists, spending 8-10 hours every day I was there in their garage building their band harnesses/instruments and learning how to use them in preparation for a street performance:
Here's their instructor, the One Man Band expert:

There's a spot just down the street that shows how the homes/buildings in Rio used to look before they were all rebuilt some years ago.
Since I was recovering from sickness the entire time I stayed with these people, and Pedro (the only English speaker) was gone at school for 7-8 hours during the day, I was really concerned they were regretting taking in their first couch surfer. As this was my first time being hosted as a couch surfer, I felt really bad for being so boring. But talking with Pedro he just kept telling me it wasn't a big deal and they were happy to have me. Most of our conversations revolved around Pedro's curiosity about American culture, specifically about "FlavorTaste" and the food truck phenomenon in the states. He shared some of his cinema work and how he feels like Brazilians who want to make films are at a disadvantage because American movie makers have so much more money and resources that they can't compete.

After 3 days of watching American TV re-runs on Brazilian TV (seriously, these people know more about our TV shows than I or anyone I know do), I knew I had to force myself to get up Corcovado to see the view and the Statue of Cristo Redentor. I went up the train at about 5:20 hoping to catch the sunset and see the city lights come up around Sugar Loaf. AWOOO! The view was well worth the wait.




I avoided doing the cliche'd arms out pose in front of the statue. Plus I was tired, feeling sick and cold from all the wind up on the mountain. Head felt like exploding on the train ride back, but I felt good crossing off the last tourist-to-do item on my Rio list.

Although expensive and anxiety provoking, Rio is still the most beautiful city I've ever visited and I look forward to going back someday (2014!).

On to the next one...Sao Paulo!

Maxing out on fun

AWOOOOOOOO! Has it been a week and a half already? It really feels like ten. Here's some highlights from the past week.

Saturday 3/3: Emporio in IPANEMA

So on Saturday our hostel was suddenly packed with people and they were all looking to crew up and have a good time (I hate these kinds of people...OHHHH!). Met a bunch of Germans, Norwegian girls and Australians and headed out to the party in Ipanema. We got there and entered the bar, but then quickly walked back out. Por que? Porque there was a van literally half a block away on the street selling beers for more than half off the bar prices. Worst part - they let you bring the beers from the street into the bar. Just like in the USA. Unfortunately forgot my camera, but there's always more where that came from.


Sunday 3/4: BAILE FUNK (Favela Funk Party!)

So the favela was calling my name on Sunday, where every week they throw a HUGE party. Funk (as characterized by the nonstop CHA CHA...CHA - ear blasting music) is the music of the lower classes, and these lower classes can get LOW LOW LOW. The hostel offers a R$70 ($45 USD) tour, since the favela is a shanty town and infamous for being dangerous. After signing up and paying, we find that some of our hostel-mates have canceled our reservation, saying they have another guide who can get us in for a fraction of the price. However, the bargain price means a lot more people are coming, from about 6-7 to about 27. Check us out in this little mini-van taxi:

After a fiasco of a trip (even though we had Portuguese speakers, getting to the favela at night is scary business), we arrived and had a casual huddle before stepping into the favela. In this picture, we had a guide surprised by how many of us there were, and telling us (English, Irish and Americans) to watch ourselves and be on our best behavior (i.e. don't get toooo drunk and aggressive. bad things can happen).


We then walked through a police barrier where they all had AK-47's draped around their necks. SAFE. After all that hype and concern, this place turned out to be HOT and CRAZY, just how I imagined it. Here's me (sporting the stylish workout dri-fit shirt) and my homie from Birmingham, England, BEN:

Me, Andreia (South Brazil) and Kelsi (not "Kayli", as mentioned from previous post) and some background dudes. Why can't people you give your camera to frame a picture well???
Me and Martine (Norway):We ended up piling back into the minivan and getting home safe and sound. So much for the danger. Worst part was that I literally couldn't hear anything for at least a day.

Monday: Early rise for the view of a lifetime (for some). SUGAR LOAF!!! Major nerves since I was going to get on the Rio Bus system (confusing and no portuguese to help me navigate once I'm on) by myself and get some shots from atop the Pao do Acucar. Luckily the directions from the hostel reception were right on and I was there in no time. R$53 (Muito Caro!) to take both cable car lifts up Sugar Loaf levels 1 and 2.

Hung around the top for a few hours and just soaked in the D!!! It was beautiful, but I wish it wasn't so cloudy/hazy. The pictures obviously didn't do it justice. Check out the little monkeys (about the size of a squirrel) that I saw hanging around on level 1.




Later that day, I got back to Copacabana and joined some of the hostel people on a walk down the beach to catch the sunset at the Arpoador (a big, China Walls-like rock that sits in between Copa and Ipanema beaches). This place is great for watching some crazy surfers handle their business.

Here's an early sunset picture:


Here's me (a little blurry as taken by my boy Tiago from Sao Paulo):

Here's Tiago (in the kind of picture I was asking him to take of ME):

and here's the very end of the sunset - check out the favela lights coming on in the mountain to the right:

Tuesday: MELT in Leblon

I don't even want to mention this one. It was like a CLUB from LA/SF/Anywhere in the states that was terrible. Back to chest with other people the whole night, ID required for the first time since the airport, and free caipirinhas only til midnight (I'm growing to hate these things). A few beers before leaving the hostel, about 5 free caipirinhas and a major crowd made me feel sick, so I ended up leaving after about 2 hours. All was well, got home and had a major hangover the next day.

Wednesday:
Absolutely nothing. Sat around the hostel all day and drank water, trying to get rid of my headache and find a way to not succumb to a cold that had been making its way into my body. Although it was a nice switch, it was bad timing for me to move to a room with air conditioning as it seemed to make my cold symptoms worse.

Went with a few people out to a churrascaria (think Rei Do Gado), where I ate my first real meal of the day. I tend to eat big, meaty meals on the queasiest of stomachs. Had my first MMD (mid-meal dook) in Brazil, and ended up with a ton of leftover eat on a plate. Cy Young. Not bad, but not as good as the US churrasco's i've been to. RDG fo life!


Thursday:
Decided it was time for a change in location. Many people I considered friends left the day before, and with an influx of Spanish speakers who were not very outgoing to the English speakers (What's up with these peeps from Chile???), I joined some people in a quest for a hostel in Ipanema. Walked our way up and into a random hostel in an alley that contains about 12 of them. Saw the room, tested the mattresses, good to go! Booked rooms and went out to the beach where my skin took a beating from the sun. I like Ipanema way better.

Returned back to the hostel and crewed up with the Germans, a guy from BsAs, and a girl from London to head to STADIUM RIO (ENGENHAO) for my first FUTBOL (Soccer!) match between FLAMENGO and EMELEC (Ecuador's second-best team.) Since the world-famous Maracana Stadium was being renovated for the World Cup in 2014, we had to trek out to the outskirts of RIO via the metro/train. Luckily, we were able to hook up with some English speaking-Cariocas (people from Rio) who were nice enough to help us get there safely and buy some tickets from the scalpers. At first, the tickets would not run through the machine, which made all the fans behind us start yelling and screaming "Stupid Gringos" or "F-ing Americanos", and made some of us scared for our lives. We calmly exited the line and found a machine that worked, and we were on our way. Running up a major spiral walkway to get to the seats, we finally arrived:





Ronaldinho (Flamengo) scored the only goal of the match (my first live match/goal, and it was in Brazil by Ronaldinho!) to lead the Brazilians to victory, 1-0. Casual trains back to the hostel, stopped in at McDo for McChicken meal #2.

Awesome times so far!

Miss you all and hope you're doing well! Until next time, Ate Mais Tarde!

so i'm IN my map...

Hey folks, just wanted to do a quick update on what's been goin on in RDJ. Still alive and well and sweating my mind away. I'm starting to think that the beer is just coming out of my pores at this point.

OK OK OK. So Rio, huh? Here's some highlights of my first week here:

After I got through the airport fiasco, I got to the hostel and met my first exotic hostel friend: a white girl from Menlo Park named Christine. After a long conversation with her (about 2 minutes or so), we were on our way to see the Selaron Steps in the Lapa area. Snoop ain't got nothing on this. Spent about 10 minutes here and my friend had to make her way back to a favela tour on motorcycle.

Later on, walked the 3 blocks down to Copacabana beach to catch the sunset. "Just look at that view...." It was nice, but no one was there since it was late and it's not that safe after dark. Walked through the neighborhood and explored a few places. Ate my first meal - A chicken/cheese sandwich and fries plus ACAI = R$25.00 (US$15.50). WHEW! Did i mention this place is muito caro (expensivo)? Can't be doing too many of those meals with my budget. Spent the rest of that night trying to get used to the hostel and started meeting some people. Talked with a new friend from Germany, Marius, and an older guy who called himself a "gypsy" from northern Brazil about life, girls, American sports, futbol, basically anything that we could come up with. Super fast changes of subject. About 12 Ivaipava Beers. They're kinda like drinking bud lite, so I get very full but not too drunk. I started to feel a little more comfortable having met some peoples and went to bed.

Next day, the hostel had organized a boat party with the three other sister hostels in Rio.

These are some of my new British friends, Ben and Will.Sugar Loaf Lookalike
Corcovado (Christ the Redeemer)

At the party, we were about 70ish people and paid R$80 to get a private boat and all you can eat and drink. A little pricey, but not out of control. People literally boarded the boat and created a line at the bar that extended to the dock. Food was almost non-existent as people kept eating it before they could cook more (BBQ). The few pieces I ate were really good, and they had some fruit and bread and this tasty sour chicken and veggies stew-like dish that everyone was eating with their bare hands. It was a pretty sloppy party.

At one point early on, while people were still pretty calm, the police came up and boarded the boat on one side. The music went down, everyone seemed to chill out, and they spoke to the captain. In a few minutes, they hopped off, boated away and everyone started cheering and getting back to the party. Literally 2 minutes later, they came around the OTHER side of the boat and boarded again (wtf?). Spoke to the captain again and left exactly the same way. Luckily they didn't come back. Probably just wanted a little keesh to keep the party going.

People then began jumping off the side of the boat as it anchored (I waited to see how hard it would be to get back on before I decided to jump, haha). They even had noodles and stuff for floating, but upon splashdown, I realized that water was like ICE. Not like in California, but still not cold enough for me to want to float around. I hopped back on the boat in a hurry and grabbed some more beers to warm up. Party continued and we got to see one of the MOST BEAUTIFUL things I've ever seen, the sunset on the water.

Look at that view - sunset on Guanabara Bay.


The following day, I joined a group of people from different hostels to go to the Lapa/Santa Teresa area to see what was cool to do there. Lapa stairs, 2.0.A view from Santa Teresa.

Santa Teresa is the "bohemian" area of the city, something like the Mission in SF. Some street art that reminds me of home.


Later that night, we went out to the Lapa Street Party (I spent a lot of time in Lapa in my first couple days). Basically, every friday the city closes the streets in the Lapa area and people get drunk on cheap (CHEAP) beer and go crazy in the streets. Here's Kayli (Aussie), Ben (Brit) and Will (Brit) straight chillin in the streets.
A peak out into the streets from a hip hop club, where we paid R$9 to enter, took one look around at the 99% dudes, and walked right out. At least I got a good shot of the streets. The music in EVERY club is as LOUD as possible, with no concern for "quality" of sound, they just blast it with a lot of treble and thundering bass and then my ears stop working for about 12-24 hours.

Also, they only seem to have one kind of song playing at every bar - "Funk". EVERY song has a guy saying "CHA, CHA....CHA!!!" which pierces the ears and no one seems to get tired of it. I guess it sounds something like house (boom-chish, boom-chish) over and over, but this is so much more LOUD and painful. I'll probably love it in another week.

I generally get around by taking a mini-van (only with someone who knows portuguese, cuz otherwise I'd be lost) that stops anywhere along the busy streets if you stand by the curb. It's a simple system and you pay R$2.5 to go anywhere. If you get a big enough group together, they'll take you to wherever you want to go for the same price. Other options are the city buses, about R$2.85, which are incredibly complex and hard to figure out because they don't run on schedules and the city streets are a labyrinth instead of a grid. Another option is to take the metro, which is something like the new york subway but runs on a very limited route, like the BART. It costs R$3.10 to go anywhere the train goes.

My Portuguese is basically non-existent, as I depend on short and easy sentences or pointing at things I want. Basically my best move is saying this:

Me: Bom Dia! Voce fala ingles? (Good morning! Do you speak English?)
Person: Nao (no.)
Me: Uhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.....Gostaria de uma [point at the thing] (I would like one - point at it).

Another example:

Me: Voce tem acai?
Person: (something fast and confusing in Portuguese)
Me: Uhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh....Quanto custa? (How much is it?)
Person: (a number that sounds something like a Spanish number)
Me: (Reach into wallet and pull out a big bill, hoping it's enough and that they'll give me the correct change). Obrigado!
Person: De nada.

Observation about Brazil: There's so many things that cost R$3. BUT...they have a R$2 bill and a R$1 coin. It makes paying for stuff so difficult. Never realized how little cash i used, and I never carried change around. Here, I'm about 99% cash and I'm glad I bought a wallet with a coin purse.

That's enough for now. Lots more to talk about, though. Hope you all are doing well back home. I miss you guys and I hope everything's good. Take care yall!